Northern Thailand yellow curry egg noodles with chicken (Khao soi gai)

Chef Jeeraporn Poksupthong, better known as P’Boom, starts by pounding her own curry paste, a potent fusion of shrimp paste, turmeric, ginger, black cardamom, dry chili and shallots. The spirited funk of her curry creeps into every corner of the dish, combining with the coconut milk, fish sauce and palm sugar to heighten the pleasures of the chicken thighs and the egg noodles prepared two ways, including a clutch of fried strands that erupt from the bowl, as haunting as an Alberto Giacometti sculpture.