Maitake mushroom

Frying maitake mushrooms turns the almost-flowery caps into a light, satisfyingly chewy vegetarian filling for Espita’s house-made corn tortillas. The tacos’ robust pop of flavor, however, comes mostly from the few simple toppings: sour shards of pickled onion, a verdant leaf or two of cilantro and a drizzle of citrusy and mezcal-laced tomatillo salsa.