Pan-fried Xiao Long Bao (sheng jian bao)

As flush and flavorful as the steamed dumplings are, the pan-fried version (sheng jian bao) is the one that generates all the traffic to Shanghai Taste, like a Rockville variation on the baseball faithful who flock to Iowa in “Field of Dreams.” The pan-fried preparation, available only on Saturday and Sunday, is more a genetic mutant of the XLB dumpling than a subspecies. Its skin is thicker, yeastier and chewier than its steamed cousin, and it comes sprinkled with sesame seeds for a mild nuttiness. It’s a soup dumpling crossed with a fluffy Chinese pork bun, and when drizzled with a ginger-black vinegar condiment, the pan-fried pocket establishes an identity all its own, crusty and less soupy than the steamed versions.

It's a soup dumpling. It’s a Chinese pork bun. It’s both at this Rockville dining destination, where the messy specialty comes drizzled with a ginger-black vinegar condiment. At once crusty, meaty and soupy, the appetizer is available only Saturday and Sunday, so save your pennies during the week and prepare to slurp your way to happiness.

As flush and flavorful as the steamed dumplings are, the pan-fried version (sheng jian bao) is the one that generates all the traffic to Shanghai Taste, like a Rockville variation on the baseball faithful who flock to Iowa in “Field of Dreams.” The pan-fried preparation, available only on Saturday and Sunday, is more a genetic mutant of the XLB dumpling than a subspecies.

Available only on Saturdays and Sundays, the pan-fried soup dumplings (sheng jian bao) at Shanghai Taste are more like a genetic mutant of the traditional XLB (xiao long bao) dumplings than a subspecies.