Cabeza (Beef Head) Tacos

The tortillas here are not made in-house, but they come off the griddle warm and slightly crispy from a light application of oil. The shop specializes in off-cuts, including beef head, intestines and tongue. The cabeza, or beef head, is the star, a rich, shredded mixture that benefits from a drizzle of green salsa, a house condiment that looks timid but has serious bite. Despite its name’s association with the gringo-friendly destination on the Yucatán Peninsula, Taqueria Cancun feels like the closest thing Washingtonians have to a real Mexican taco stand, in both atmosphere and eats. I could almost imagine the beaches of Isla Mujeres outside, the warm waters and salty air beckoning as I gobbled up the last of my tacos.